Sunday 25 September 2011

San Gil, Colombia 13th - 16th September

We were warned by our guidebook (thanks Craig and Tania) that on long overnight bus journeys you should try to get a seat at the back of the bus and away from the noise of the excessantly violent films they blare throughout the bus trip... well as the bus rolled out of the bus station that evening, we were not disappointed, our feature film entitled Blood and Bone, all dubbed in Spanish, began! Typical amateur Gringo's, we were conspicuous as we pulled out our headlamps and started reading instead!

The overnight buses are extremely comfortable as the seats recline a long way back - much more than on an aeroplane and Derek and I managed to get a good amount of sleep until 3am, where the effects of freezing aircon took their toll! Both in shorts, luckily with a track top each, we froze! Couldn't understand why we were the only ones now awake, we looked around to see masses of beanies covering heads and blankets covering bodies! We have learnt a lesson for the future.

As we approached 7am, our bus rolled into the town of Bucaramanga where we changed onto another bus, and now much happier as it was warming up.. we set off on our final leg of the journey to the town of San Gil.
Derek and i were absolutely amazed by the scenery. Green and lush as we climbed higher and higher through this incredible canyon (Rio Chicamocha Canyon) and then back down again, all the while our big bus, overtaking tankers going uphill and around bends! Slightly nerve wracking to say the least, but every other passenger seemed like this was the most normal thing in the world.Well, we eventually got there in one piece, but there's another thing to be said about Colombians and their driving!

After arriving in San Gil at our backpackers, the Mokondo Hostel, we quickly met a couple people who were to become our new best friends! An English couple, two German girls, an Irishman, and another Englishman! Our hostel had a really relaxed and friendly vibe, that and since San Gil is known for its outdoor adventure sports (too many to choose from, which made it so difficult!) we were in for a couple fun days ahead!

We arrived and set out to explore the local market - selling a huge variety of fruit and veg. Colombians really do make the most of the different fruits in the form of juices, with either milk or water added. We settled into a tart, yet refreshing lemonade! One of the many!














Later that afternoon we went hiking to the Jaun Curi Waterfall about 45mins bus ride away.
Absolutely breathtaking! I don't think the pics quite do it justice! At the base of the waterfall was a small, yet very deep pool, which we climbed into for a short while - was a little on the chilly side!
That evening, a whole bunch of us from our hostel went to this restaurant called El Mane. What a deal! A 4 course meal at a steal of a price. You don't get given a menu, but rather the meal of the day which is all Colombian Cuisine. It was a good night out, getting to know everyone.

The next morning, Derek and I had a really relaxed start to the day! A bit of reading on the hammock, some internetting, did a little laundry - me hand washing, Colombian washer women style - Mum you'd have been so proud! haha! Was just so nice to chill out and remember we are in fact on holiday!! Besides, we were saving all our energy for an exciting, adrenaline filled afternoon of paragliding! Woohoo!

We started a very slow and windy trip in a 4x4 minibus, carrying about 8 of us up this hill to where we'd start the paragliding. In all honesty, i think i was more worried about whether the minibus would ever get us up the hill then actually jumping off it! At one stage it sounded like the engine was seizing and smoke was coming out of the airconditioning vents! Gramps, driving the bus, just carried on grinding the gears till we got there!

We patiently waited...and eventually it was our turn! Derek went off ahead of me and i followed shortly afterwards. I know i may sound biased but i firmly believe my take off was the most traumatic ( i had the German girls backing me on this one!). Firstly i was taken a little off guard when a new paragliding pilot arrived, pointed at me and said something in Spanish and before i knew it i was being suited up! We started our take off at a spot a little closer to the edge of the hill, compared to the others. Our first attempt at take off landed us closer to the edge of the hill and me off my feet . The second take off almost took poor Gramps (who was holding and positioning us) over the edge ( which seemed like a mountain from my point of view) but a second of doubt and then we had lift off!

Wow, so serene and peaceful up there! The tandem paragliding is fantastic, really not as scary as we thought it would be. Derek and i were however not as fortunate as some of those that went before us (most of whom weighed less than 60kg's) who managed to go really high and then spiral down in death defying routines. Nevertheless it was a fantastic experience!
 
 
 
 
Some links to videos we have uploaded to youtube:
 
 
 

In the evening, our Hostel had organized a barbecue for us all. Definitely a first - eating a piece of steak with plastic cutlery! As you can imagine, it was a fork graveyard!
Many a beers were drunk that night - partly on account of it being happy hour at our hostel, one beer was equivalent to 35pence or R4, and Derek's desire to drink an English Pint's worth of Colombian beer!




We woke up super early the next morning, keen to get going to the little town of Barichara (a short bus ride away). Barichara is a beautiful, 18th Century town, been declared a national monument and has been popularly used as a film set. From this town we started a 9km hike down a cobbled pathway all the way to the sleepy little village of Guane.

We then returned to Barichara by bus for a good look around and some lunch! One of the restaurants that Barichara is famous for serves speciality flying ants! So we headed there and Derek ordered a steak with ant sauce ( and a couple whole ants too!). I asked Derek to describe his meal, his response: steak with gravy and ants are like eating popcorn! Right then...
Very proud of my adventurous self, i tasted one ant and some plantain! Colombian's serve plantain with everything, it tastes like fried maize, but is in actual fact green banana, but thankfully does not taste like banana!














All the towns we have been to in the area, have a lovely main square in the centre, full of trees and park benches with a cathedral / church on one of the edges. The squares are full of people, just whiling away the hours, doing a bit of trade, making music - just big social areas to congregate and makes you wonder what these people all do? Really great.

As for the cathedrals / churches - obviously a big Catholic following here and there are continuous services throughout the day. Big old buildings, then inside, almost cavernous and plain until you look straight ahead at the alter - where there is a hugely ornate, mostly gold with statuettes everywhere. Quite something the contrast of it all.

























That evening we did a little research about the next couple of days. Considering most of our new friends had moved on, we had a very quiet night. Much needed as we had an early start the next morning - a bus trip to the town of Villa De Leiva.

Thursday 15 September 2011

Santa Marta, Colombia 11-13 September 2011

We left Cartagena on Sunday morning via a door to door shuttle service to Santa Marta. This was a very efficient and comfortable way to do this trip and not too expensive. The bus trip was about 4 hours and we didn't have the stress of finding our way to and from bus terminals in either city. The trip was very uneventful and we got to see a little of the scenery on the way. There were a lot of lakes, sea and lots of tropical vegetation. Not much else to report on that front.

When we got to Santa Marta we dropped off a couple of people and then we ended up going over the hill to drop off a few people in Taganga. This is a pretty little fishing village and we were happy that we got the opportunity to see this. After we dropped off the rest of the people there Tess and I were a little worried that the shuttle driver had forgotten about us, so we started purposefully talking really loudly so he would in fact not forget about us! We headed back to Santa Marta through the back-end, next thing we were worried about was the location of our next hostel, as the back of Santa Marta is like something out of Michell's Plain. Fortunately he was just taking another route and we arrived at the Dreamer Hostel to be pleasantly surprised.

The staff there were very welcoming and gave us a lot of good information. Santa Marta city is not particularly beautiful, but the surrounding areas are extremely beautiful with Parque Tayrona situated just a short drive away.

Our first task in Santa Marta was to venture out, check out the area and find the bus terminal. Armed with our ever improving, yet still extremely basic Spanish we headed for the bus terminal. Walking away we were very proud of our efforts as we went to all the major bus companies and managed to find our cost of bus tickets and departure times. This put us at ease knowing we had our exit strategy planned.

On the way home, we popped into the local shopping centre, which is supposed to be the biggest in Santa Marta.  We came to the conclsion that these people hardly know what a shopping centre is and its about the same size as the Riverside Centre in Rondebosch. It did have a very big Exito (like Tescos or Pick n Pay). We bought ourselves some dinner, some fruit and sandwich stuff for the beach trip the next day.

There were 2 options to explore Parque Nacional Tayrona and its amazing beaches: to go into the park and stay the night, seeing the beaches further into the park, or the option we went for, to do a day trip to Playa Concha. We headed off to go and find our way there. When the taxi dropped us off at Bastida we were surrounded by motorbike and 4x4 drivers wanteing to ferry us there. After some negotiation we decided to go with Primo and his clapped out series 1 Landy. The trip there is amazingly scenic as you head towards and into the park with a pretty basic dirt track the only way in and out. The door was held closed with a u-shaped metal bar, there was a hole in the floor next to the gear lever and we needed to stop on the way back for Primo to do some emergency repairs to an accelerator cable that came undone.


When we arrived at Playa Concha, we were greeted by the most stunning beach and we were just about the only people on it. We hired some chairs under an awning and settled in for the day. We then chilled and soaked in the sun, sounds and sights of the beach. The beach looks like an uninhabited island as all you can see is flat warm blue water, white sands and the surrounding mountains covered in green green vegetation.
Some highlights from the beach:
  • We saw 2 Colombian ladies posing for each other in the water, out of the water, on the rocks, in what we can only summise was the beginning some sort of medelling portfolio (think Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Edition minus the photo crew). We not so sure they are going to get too far!
  • Watching local fisherman ply their trade. They take the nets out a whole long way into the bay using a very simple boat and some oars then bring it back to the back and a whole bunch get involved dragging the net back in. The pickings were rather slim!
  • Finding a crab and starfish in the sea right where we were swimming
All in all, this was the most relaxing day we have had on our trip so far. I did get a little too much sun and tess wanted to take pictures of me when I got home. I rufused point blank fearing these would get onto Facebook or into the blog. Trust me, I saved you guys from a horrific sight!










The next day in Santa Marta was much more chilled. We relaxed in the morning at the hostel pool and then headed out to the Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino - Simon Bolivar Museum. This was pretty impressive, it is situated on a 36 acre property in Santa Marta. Simon Bolivar is a legend in these parts as he freed a whole lot of the South Amrican countires from Spanish rule. There were also some art exibitions  at the Museum, as well as the house where he spent his last days and passed away, which contained old artifacts, photos and memorabilia. Around the Museum are the botanical gardens, with loads of trees, birds, some fish in pools, iguanas and apparently some snakes. On a board at the entrance they recommend we stay away from the areas where the poisonous snakes are situated. No shit! 


After leaving the museum we headed to buy our bus tickets and then just chilled at the hostel by the pool, reading our books in hammocks and playing around on the internet waiting for our bus to leave at 8:30 in the evening.

Friday 9 September 2011

Leaving London and starting in Colombia

We departed from Garratt Lane in London at 5 am in the morning to begin our epic journey. It still seems unreal that we are about to embark on this journey. The first leg of our journey was from Heathrow to Madrid on Iberia. This was one of the most uncomfortable flights we had been on. The seats are really small and we were still tired from the early start and we didn't get much sleep on this short trip. All was going according to plan, but as we were about to board the plane in Madrid it was delayed, neither of our Spanish being very good we struggled to figure out what exactly was happening and worried that any delays would cause us to miss our connecting flight from Bogata to Cartegena.

After a short delay we were on our way, we were seated in row 50, of 50, with a blind man, another single man and his screaming 2yr old, and all the toliet goers to keep us company on the 10 hour flight. Safe to say ipods and books came in very handy! We made it to Bogota in good time to make our connecting flight. The only trouble is that there is pretty much no English anywhere here, finding our way was a little tricky, but we managed to get some Colombian Pesos and make it to our departure gate without too much hastle. The last leg of a very long journey to Cartegena was short and very comfortable with no issues.

After 21 hours of travelling we were finally beginning our journey on Columbian soil...

Cartagena, Colombia 6 - 10 Sep 2011


After what seemed like a never-ending journey, we stepped off the plane to an extremely hot and humid Cartagena! Like Durban on steroids...seriously sweaty stuff!

We managed to find a taxi with relative ease, all of which are yellow, kind of like New York, but not really!! Small yellow hyundai's!

Derek and I so chuffed with ourselves, only to be delivered to an El Viajero Hotel where they had absolutely no knowledge of our booking!! Slightly panicked and in broken English, the manager explained that we were in fact looking for the El Viajero Hostel. Fortunately they were only a ten minute walk apart! So pleased were we to find our own room, with blasting aircon .. a step closer to bed after 24hrs awake!

Day one's mission was to find a place to learn Spanish. After only a couple hours it became so apparent that without learning Spanish, the next 3 months would not be as enjoyable (think japanese tourists, looking confused and trying to copy what other people are doing in a foreign city... that was Derek and I!!).

Along with finding the best school, we spent the day wondering around the Old Town of Cartagena. Cobbled streets, narrow roads bustling with activity, old delapidated buildings alongside brightly painted, beautiful houses... Cartagena has this charm about it. All of this at the sea's edge.
Derek and I have been enjoying some of the local tastes, fresh fruit juice squeezed in front of you - all different types. Totally what you need on a boiling day - all iced and ready to go.
Talking of drinks... the local Club Colombia beer went down a treat too!
We started our Spanish classes - luckily just the two of us in a class, and Orfarit our teacher was patient enough whilst we got to grips with the basics! The 3 day course was rather expensive, but a worthwhile investment for our trip!



One of the more touristy things we did, was visit the Castillo San Felipe De Barajas, built in 1657 - which was an old castle used to defend Cartagena back in the day. Because of it's position, gave us a good view of the whole of Cartagena and how the city is laid out. (Below is a view of Bocagrande, a suburb of Cartagena, from the top of the Castle)
One thing that hasn't gone unnoticed are the torrential downpours and thunder and lightning! So much so that one night, that has had our fellow backpackers waterskiing on their slops down the paved back yard - after a couple of drinks of course!

Talking about backpackers....hmmm.. am taking a bit of time getting used to the weird and wonderful backpacking folk! You'd laugh at the sights and sounds that we've experienced - if only cameras had caught these moments!


Gosh, another thing having to get used to paying and working out costs .. all in the thousands! you know me and my maths!! Current exchange rate of 1800 colombian pesos to the dollar has had me totally confused and of course had Derek having to explain and work out things for me twice!

Left: A view from the Old Town walls.

Right: Derek in front of the Torre De Roloj - Clock Tower





To end our Cartagena experience on a high note and undoubtedly the highlight for both Derek and I whilst here, was getting to go to the Volcan du Totumo (Mud Volcano)! A steep climb up some steps, with a warm-ish pool of mud welcoming us!
The mud is so thick that you float on top of it and locals massage you with the mud!Being in the mud is the weirdest feeling - you can't touch the bottom, you are just suspended in it!We floated around for a bit, whilst taking in the most incredible views of the surrounding Totumo Lake! Afterwhich we washed ourselves in the Lake. The photos probably best describe it.