Sunday 25 September 2011

San Gil, Colombia 13th - 16th September

We were warned by our guidebook (thanks Craig and Tania) that on long overnight bus journeys you should try to get a seat at the back of the bus and away from the noise of the excessantly violent films they blare throughout the bus trip... well as the bus rolled out of the bus station that evening, we were not disappointed, our feature film entitled Blood and Bone, all dubbed in Spanish, began! Typical amateur Gringo's, we were conspicuous as we pulled out our headlamps and started reading instead!

The overnight buses are extremely comfortable as the seats recline a long way back - much more than on an aeroplane and Derek and I managed to get a good amount of sleep until 3am, where the effects of freezing aircon took their toll! Both in shorts, luckily with a track top each, we froze! Couldn't understand why we were the only ones now awake, we looked around to see masses of beanies covering heads and blankets covering bodies! We have learnt a lesson for the future.

As we approached 7am, our bus rolled into the town of Bucaramanga where we changed onto another bus, and now much happier as it was warming up.. we set off on our final leg of the journey to the town of San Gil.
Derek and i were absolutely amazed by the scenery. Green and lush as we climbed higher and higher through this incredible canyon (Rio Chicamocha Canyon) and then back down again, all the while our big bus, overtaking tankers going uphill and around bends! Slightly nerve wracking to say the least, but every other passenger seemed like this was the most normal thing in the world.Well, we eventually got there in one piece, but there's another thing to be said about Colombians and their driving!

After arriving in San Gil at our backpackers, the Mokondo Hostel, we quickly met a couple people who were to become our new best friends! An English couple, two German girls, an Irishman, and another Englishman! Our hostel had a really relaxed and friendly vibe, that and since San Gil is known for its outdoor adventure sports (too many to choose from, which made it so difficult!) we were in for a couple fun days ahead!

We arrived and set out to explore the local market - selling a huge variety of fruit and veg. Colombians really do make the most of the different fruits in the form of juices, with either milk or water added. We settled into a tart, yet refreshing lemonade! One of the many!














Later that afternoon we went hiking to the Jaun Curi Waterfall about 45mins bus ride away.
Absolutely breathtaking! I don't think the pics quite do it justice! At the base of the waterfall was a small, yet very deep pool, which we climbed into for a short while - was a little on the chilly side!
That evening, a whole bunch of us from our hostel went to this restaurant called El Mane. What a deal! A 4 course meal at a steal of a price. You don't get given a menu, but rather the meal of the day which is all Colombian Cuisine. It was a good night out, getting to know everyone.

The next morning, Derek and I had a really relaxed start to the day! A bit of reading on the hammock, some internetting, did a little laundry - me hand washing, Colombian washer women style - Mum you'd have been so proud! haha! Was just so nice to chill out and remember we are in fact on holiday!! Besides, we were saving all our energy for an exciting, adrenaline filled afternoon of paragliding! Woohoo!

We started a very slow and windy trip in a 4x4 minibus, carrying about 8 of us up this hill to where we'd start the paragliding. In all honesty, i think i was more worried about whether the minibus would ever get us up the hill then actually jumping off it! At one stage it sounded like the engine was seizing and smoke was coming out of the airconditioning vents! Gramps, driving the bus, just carried on grinding the gears till we got there!

We patiently waited...and eventually it was our turn! Derek went off ahead of me and i followed shortly afterwards. I know i may sound biased but i firmly believe my take off was the most traumatic ( i had the German girls backing me on this one!). Firstly i was taken a little off guard when a new paragliding pilot arrived, pointed at me and said something in Spanish and before i knew it i was being suited up! We started our take off at a spot a little closer to the edge of the hill, compared to the others. Our first attempt at take off landed us closer to the edge of the hill and me off my feet . The second take off almost took poor Gramps (who was holding and positioning us) over the edge ( which seemed like a mountain from my point of view) but a second of doubt and then we had lift off!

Wow, so serene and peaceful up there! The tandem paragliding is fantastic, really not as scary as we thought it would be. Derek and i were however not as fortunate as some of those that went before us (most of whom weighed less than 60kg's) who managed to go really high and then spiral down in death defying routines. Nevertheless it was a fantastic experience!
 
 
 
 
Some links to videos we have uploaded to youtube:
 
 
 

In the evening, our Hostel had organized a barbecue for us all. Definitely a first - eating a piece of steak with plastic cutlery! As you can imagine, it was a fork graveyard!
Many a beers were drunk that night - partly on account of it being happy hour at our hostel, one beer was equivalent to 35pence or R4, and Derek's desire to drink an English Pint's worth of Colombian beer!




We woke up super early the next morning, keen to get going to the little town of Barichara (a short bus ride away). Barichara is a beautiful, 18th Century town, been declared a national monument and has been popularly used as a film set. From this town we started a 9km hike down a cobbled pathway all the way to the sleepy little village of Guane.

We then returned to Barichara by bus for a good look around and some lunch! One of the restaurants that Barichara is famous for serves speciality flying ants! So we headed there and Derek ordered a steak with ant sauce ( and a couple whole ants too!). I asked Derek to describe his meal, his response: steak with gravy and ants are like eating popcorn! Right then...
Very proud of my adventurous self, i tasted one ant and some plantain! Colombian's serve plantain with everything, it tastes like fried maize, but is in actual fact green banana, but thankfully does not taste like banana!














All the towns we have been to in the area, have a lovely main square in the centre, full of trees and park benches with a cathedral / church on one of the edges. The squares are full of people, just whiling away the hours, doing a bit of trade, making music - just big social areas to congregate and makes you wonder what these people all do? Really great.

As for the cathedrals / churches - obviously a big Catholic following here and there are continuous services throughout the day. Big old buildings, then inside, almost cavernous and plain until you look straight ahead at the alter - where there is a hugely ornate, mostly gold with statuettes everywhere. Quite something the contrast of it all.

























That evening we did a little research about the next couple of days. Considering most of our new friends had moved on, we had a very quiet night. Much needed as we had an early start the next morning - a bus trip to the town of Villa De Leiva.

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