Monday 3 October 2011

Villa de Leiva, 17 September 2011

Villa de Leiva is a beautiful little town that reminded Tess and I of Franschoek walking around it: little cobbled streets, white houses and Tuscan style roofs, minus the vineyards unfortunately. Villa de Leiva is also considered a World Heritage site and definitely deserves the title. We really loved Villa de Leiva and wished we could have spent more time there.


We arrived from San Gil on a short bus ride (4hrs) to Tunja and then another 45 mins to the town itself. We left the bus station confident we would find Hostal Rana, situated in Calle 10a 3-30. When we reached Calle 10 (road 10 in Spanish, not very orriginal, but easy to follow for us Gringo's) we couldn't seem to work out the numbering of the houses. We asked the nearest shop owner if she knew where the place was and she kindly gave us some directions. After we reached the main town square we knew that we had gone a little too far, but only to find the shop assistant running after us giving us new directions. Very sweet! We still haven't figure out the house numbering system and even after asking the owner of Hostel Rana she could enlighten us any further.

Once we had checked in we headed out to find ourselves some lunch. To our pleasant surprise we found a lovely Italian restaurant that had a hugely diverse menu, from grilled meat and fish to all kinds of pasta and pizza. Tess for the first time was spoilt for choice on the food side.

After the amazing lunch we wondered around the town for a bit, there was a political rally happening in the evening and there were loads of cars, bakkies and buses making their way to the town square, which is the centrepiece of the town: a huge, magnificent cobbled square that has the cathedral dominating the one side. We opted out of joining the rally and headed back to our hostel instead for a quiet evening.

We got an early start the next morning and headed out to explore the beautiful town some more. We wondered the lovely streets and found ourselves a fresh juice and pastry for breakfast. Fuelled up we wondered up to the top of the town where we had a lovely view over the town and the surrounding areas. It really is a fantastic little town.

Unsure what else there was for us to see, we went past the bus station to buy our tickets to Bogota later that afternoon and then buoyed by the great lunch the previous day we headed to our new favourite restaurant only to find this closed for a private party. Standing outside looking rather confused, a lovely lady asked us if we were looking for a restaurant, we said that we had eaten at this place the previous day and we hoping to do the same again. She then assisted us in recommending another few places around town, so we set out in search of our next great meal. We found one of the places she had recommended, Tess was so pleased with the place she actually had a steak, which was great a great change from her usual; chicken and rice J.

Later that afternoon we headed to catch our bus to Bogota and a rather rude surprise was waiting for us: when we bought our tickets we were told that our bus would be a company that we had seen in a few places and we were comfortable with what to expect, when she showed us the bus that we would be on we were rather worried. Firstly, there was nowhere underneath the bus to put our luggage and so Tess and I each took two seats one for our luggage and one to sit in. This rather cheeky space hogging approach was very short lived and the guy came in demanding if we had paid for four tickets (we obviously hadn’t) so we had to squash up with our big backpacks in front of us for a four hour journey. Now we were pissed off to say the least! We had been sold a lemon! Secondly, the bus door didn’t close properly! Considering we were sitting closest to the door we were concerned that some of our things may fall out!  Thirdly, the décor in the bus was all green with tassels everywhere, like old fashioned curtains from many decades ago, some silver silhouettes of naked ladies that kind of bounced around as we moved and some rather kitsch signs, like “A need for speed” coupled together with weed stickers. We were not overly convinced that this bus was going to get us there safely, on time, or at all for that matter!

We assumed the rubbish bus was going to go via Tunja, a city where we knew the big bus companies went through to Bogota, so for the next 10 mins we figured out how to say in Spanish that we wanted to change buses, get some of our money back and change to a smarter bus in Tunja, this quelled the anger only slightly. This resolution was very short-lived as the bus we were on made a turn away from Tunja, direct to Bogota. So we settled in for the long, uncomfortable, stressful journey. By some small miracle in the end they got us to where we needed to be safely and on time!

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